Dog Care And Training

Dog Heat Symptoms

2008-04-16T03:16:00.000-07:00

Dog Heat Symptoms

When your dog suffering from sudden illness, it may be difficult to find out what is wrong in the end, because your dog is unable to effectively communicate with you. Know the signs and symptoms of the specific issues, when consultants can help you with your dog's veterinarian. One of the most common problems with the dogs during the summer months is dog heat symptoms. There are things to see out of your dog.

The most important thing to remember is in the hot summer, you pay attention to your dog to help avoid problems. Ensure that your dog is rich drinks is very important, and to keep your dog out of the sunlight for a long time. In addition, if necessary outside, it is necessary to ensure that they have access to a shady area and a great deal of water available to them.

The dog's temperature is usually between 101 to 102 degrees Fahrenheit. Rising only 3 degrees can be fatal to a dog. From here, its impact has just begun to lose control. Temperatures rose dog heat symptoms to create a higher need oxygen, which need a dog panting. Can not keep up with the needs of the dog, so that the temperatures continue to rise.

At 108 degrees, the dog's body closed. He or she begins to decompose the major organs in the cell level, and continue to do so at an alarming rate. Even immediate care could not leave the dog with permanent internal damage. That is why it is so important to closely monitor your dog, not only in hot weather, but any time he or she is in a small confined space over a period of time.

What to watch can be a big key to help your dog through this. If the temperature rise is at 108 degrees before it reaches the mark, your dog can be saved from permanent damage. These are all things, you should pay attention to.

Shortness of breath and rapid heart rate can show your dog is trouble with the head of the household. These are resulting in greater need of oxygen. Dry nose and mouth also can be signs of dog heat symptoms. Some dogs will get a dry nose just from sleep, but if their mouth is dry, and then if there is trouble. You should also check the dog's gums. If they have from the normal color flat Huihei pink or red, then your dog is experiencing heat stroke.

If these signs are present, you should get your dog to the veterinarian immediately. There is no indication that, heat stroke is that you fight in your dog's life. These initial indications, it was soon followed more extreme signs, which usually indicates you are too late. These include signs of collapse, convulsions, coma or even death dog heat symptoms.

Tracking that your dog is an important sense of the work of any pet owners. Knowingly indications, as well as how to avoid heat stroke and some extremists like you and the dog is also very important.

When Is A Puppy Full Grown

2008-04-11T01:01:00.000-07:00

When Is A Puppy Full Grown

Size

Most canine give full play to their size by the time they are 12 to 18 months old, although it does take a long time, some of the largest species, in order to complete more and more. Some varieties even reached a comprehensive framework within the first six months of life, although it will take longer time for the remaining of his body to catch up.

Before you get the dog, we must find out how in the end, he or she is very likely to become the comprehensive growth. Depending on how quickly the new pet you grow up, you may be quite a shock on when is a puppy full grown. Many people think about how much fun this would have a cute puppy love in disguise, but it does not really stop to think about what it would be like living with a fully grown up, adult dogs.

Mature

From the point of view of a mature, it is important to remember that different varieties mature at different rates. Many people believe that they will not only have to tolerate the behavior and rambunctious puppy for one year.

Some dogs do to mature, near the end of the first year of their lives, and some were even longer period of time to mature. For example, border collies and other sheep dog did not start as adult ups and downs when is a puppy full grown, until they are about 2 years old. Catahoulas not fully mature until they are closer to 3 years old.

If your home with the dog breeding, consider a little more time to mature, than most, it is important that you are mentally prepared to live with the adult dog WHO continues to behave like a puppy, extended period of time.

So, when is a puppy grow up?

If you have been living in a puppy, for a time, and wait for his or her return, you may find yourself thinking that if the maturity is any time in the past will appear. Your setbacks may lead you do not know, and concluded, "When is a puppy grow up?

Puppies are full of energy. They are very rambunctious and demanded a lot of attention from their owners. When the dog began to mature, and they started themselves in a more dignified manner. While the majority of dogs still fun entire life, there is a great difference between the activities of a mature lively dogs and unlimited expansion and Daixue judgement of the most dog show.

If your PUP always seems to be very happy, shredded newspapers, chewing your furniture or dig holes in your backyard, watch for the signs, such acts have begun to diminish. This could be a signal that maturity is not too far over the horizon. When you see your dog began to exercise more restraint, and its a safe bet that he or she began to mature.

When Is A Puppy Full Grown

Giardia Symptoms Dog

2008-04-11T00:46:00.000-07:00

Giardia Symptoms Dog

Giardia is a protozoan parasite. It formed a hard shell over itself (cyst), and can survive the various conditions for the looooong time - this is a serious pest. Once an infected dog, they are a carrier for life. This is a bit like Demodex - a dog's physical health checks have parasites, but does not mean that the dog did not check it (and, most or all of the dogs may have Demodex).
In a flare, Giardia is multiplied by the loss of control. They attach lining the intestines, causing great distress to the dog. Giardia symptoms dog have diarrhea (usually green at the beginning), gas, abdominal tenderness. As flares progress, in turn, often bloody diarrhea and full of mucus.

Diagnosis Giardia is not easy. Diagnosis can be done in one of two ways: by the faecal samples or educated clinical evaluation results of the study.

The fecal samples is not straightforward. Even when a flare is in its worst, the cyst will be shed, in every single droppings. The most thorough way to assess is to collect samples from each of a single stool produced 48 to 72 hours. Fwiw, my own observation is that stool is the most bloody and full of mucus may contain cysts.

The clinical findings is the use of other means to diagnose. This means that the audit to look at the dog, the evaluation of history and symptoms, and to this foundation. If successful treatment, the diagnosis was accurate. Veterinarians should be aware that the district - Giardia symptoms dog in the region where the most likely to be infected? And how this may be, the dog is one of the affected areas? No dogs swimming or drinking infected - taking in the boggy ground Giardia infection can be transferred to the dog's legs, and then the dog can lick it off in a self-organize.

And the choice of treatment metronidazole (brand name metronidazole). Metronidazole has two interesting properties - the action is mainly confined to the gut, but also seems to stimulate the immune system. Metronidazole kill Giardia well-off and reduce the numbers to facilitate a dog's immune system can handle.

Stress amount needs to be flares, it seems that a large number of variables with different dogs. My male Belgian sheepdog no flare, as he is one year old, or even last year, we fought prostate infection, for four months (he finally gave up sterilization). My Belgian sheepdog Witch has had several flares over the years, but she lupus erythematosus, which means her immune system is whacko anyway. She has so many flares, her young Giardia symptoms dog, I bought metronidazole expected by 1000 at the wholesale prices from my examination. Because she was older, she fewer flare (both lupus and Giardia).

I have coated dogs, so it's even more obvious, but this applies to the dog as smooth coating. When they have a flare, they have diarrhea. When they have diarrhea, a certain amount of fecal material by the hair around the hindquarters. Each attack, diarrhea, I use a sprayer bottle filled with a solution of 2 cups plain water and a teaspoon of orvus (you can use a dog shampoo or Dawn dishwashing liquid) spraying the Giardia symptoms dog's tail and pants, and then a paper towel be wiped away. Once a day (or more often, if it really bad), I put the dog in the bathtub suds and the tail and pants, then thoroughly washed. I use a cheap dust masks pm (looks like a mask, can be had for less than a dollar, from the hardware store), in order to protect my nose and mouth from flying spray (I wear glasses, so my eyes are protected -- people may not want to have goggles).
It is also important to wash hands after grooming. If the dog is a torch, I have to wash my hands after each contact with a dog. Yes, especially in the cold weather, I do chapped hands (I do not intend to give up on my Giardia symptoms dog !). One thing that works for me is the use of hand lotion after every wash (the best thing I have found that breast cream). Once or twice a day, instead of hand lotion, I use a first-aid DAB containing cortisone cream (mixed with a small jet hand lotion). Keep chapping down to a sustainable level.

Dog Parvo Symptoms: Part 2

2008-04-09T23:36:00.000-07:00

Dog Parvo Symptoms

Treatment
Treatment of parvovirus are to correct life-threatening dehydration accompanied by diarrhea, and intravenous injection (lactated Ringer solution and bicarbonate). 10 to 40 ml per pound, due to the beginning, and then slow intravenous infusion, will stabilize these dogs. Once the initial dehydration corrected, may also subcutaneous fluid maintenance. We have to relax intestinal spasm drugs, such as metoclopramide (reglan, 0.1-0.25mg/lb three or four times a day), trimethobenzamide (tigan, 1.5mg/lb, three times daily).

In addition, the dog is on antibiotics to prevent secondary bacterial infections, through the damaged small intestine (cephalosporins, keflin @ 5-15mg/pound to four times daily intramuscular injection or intravenous). Back in the dog disease might be in the short term fever. However, the puppies are often reduced to the normal temperature, a few days later. These dogs need additional heat source. It helps to sit with the dog, pet it and encourage their will to live. Many young dogs with dog parvo symptoms shookworm infections and parvovirus disease more serious. Once these dogs can hold down the liquid, I worm them and thiadiazole pyrimidine pamoate (strongid, nemex, 2.5mg/pound).

Some dogs to the veterinarian small dose of transnasal butorphanol tartrate (torbugesic 0.05-0.1mg/pound intramuscular injection), to alleviate the severe abdominal pain accompanied by this disease.

Dogs and puppies began to accept a small part of the food is often on the road of economic recovery. Touched by their tail is a good sign. Despite all my efforts, many young people can not survive in small dogs dog parvo symptoms.

Immune disease
The dog is likely to recover is immune for life. As a strong immunity attendant infection, the carrier dog does not exist.

Many excellent brands of a vaccine is in the market. Check the attenuation (weakened) parvovirus. All products are safe and have a good immune when the last injection due to the age of 18. When the vaccine failed, it is usually because it is the puppy before there is sufficient passive maternal antibodies disappear from the blood stream. In the fourth six weeks of age puppies can be successfully vaccinated. In nine weeks of age puppies can be 40 percent successful vaccination. From 16 weeks and 60% of the puppies can be successful vaccination, and through 18 weeks 95% of the puppies can be successfully vaccinated. Some of the newer vaccines, the so-called high titer low vaccine is successful immunization puppies at an earlier age (12wks). Antibody test, is quite expensive. Rather than measuring antibody levels in the blood of puppies to choose a suitable vaccine management is the age of the circumstances, we give a series of lens design, the successful conduct of immunization, most puppies before they come in contact with the virus susceptible.

I am a small vaccine in 12, 14 and 18 weeks of age. When I saw the puppy dog parvo symptoms in the 9 weeks of age, I can inoculation. This "puppy shot series," so that some of our vaccination of puppies that are not ready to deal with the vaccine, and re-vaccinated, and some puppies have been immune disease. It may also be sensitive to some puppies "slip through" these regular vaccination, and prone to a small period of days. This is unfortunate small dog training despite vaccination.

Conclusion
Parvovirus and dog parvo symptoms is still a major threat, dogs, in the United States and a common cause of mortality in the puppies. Because of drug-resistant virus, preservatives, hot and dry it is not possible management of a cage, to the security of 100% from this disease. Whatever the puppy vaccination schedule is the use, there will be a window of sensitivity, when the puppies are at the risk of disease, if exposure occurs. Rapid veterinary care, it can save many of the infected dogs, but some people will die of this disease, despite excellent care.

Dog Parvo Symptoms: Part 1

2008-04-09T23:26:00.000-07:00

Dog Parvo Symptoms

Canine Parvovirus is the most common serious infectious disease of dogs in the United States. Canine Parvovirus for ulcerative enteritis and diarrhea susceptible dogs. This diarrhea, bloody and life-threatening. The parvovirus has mutated several times since 1980. Today, the most common strain is the CPV - 2B of.
High mortality rates in the 1970s and 1980s has been reduced due to effective vaccine. However, some dogs continue to break up with the illness and death, although vaccinated.

Dynamic disease
Parvovirus is a very difficult and resistant bug. The virus of life for a long time, on the floors, food containers and other household goods. Carpet is particularly difficult to clean. It is believed that the family pests, such as cockroaches move virus. The virus is both disinfectants and heat-resistant phenolic. It can be inactivated, but with ordinary household bleach used in a concentration of 1 part bleach to 21 parts water. Under the sun exposure, but also kills the virus. For the bleach solution to work with children of organic substances, must be removed cleansing for dog parvo symptoms.

Although it needs one or two weeks for the dog to develop signs of disease, the AIDS virus is shed in the feces, from the third day continuous exposure. This means that the dog seems to be health has been able to open a home-and pollution.

Symptoms small
Parvovirus disease is a remarkable dog parvo symptoms can vary from person to person, and not all of a fatal disease. Four factors governing the severity of the disease: the age of exposure, dose size of the virus, the presence of maternal antibodies, and the participation of the dog.
Dogs accept short-term maternal antibodies from their mothers through their first milk or colostrum. This gives the puppy antibodies to fight disease. Puppies, living in a small environment filled with little break this disease until they reached 14-20 weeks of age. At that time, their mother's immunity, no longer protect them, they may die of the disease.
Dogs over the age of six months development of small natural resistance. Many of these dogs, only a short-term diarrhea. By the time one or two dogs reach the age of the disease can be so mild that it noticed by the owners.
For unknown reasons, Doberman pinschers, rottweilers and Pit Bull Terriers suffering from the disease more than other varieties.

The most common type of parvovirus infection is a sudden (acute) or inflammation of the small intestine enteritis. This dog parvo symptoms is characterized by depression, vomiting, diarrhea and dehydration profound. The bloody stools and declining number of white blood cells is quite common. Some puppies died as soon as possible for the occurrence of diarrhea, but many linger on for 4-6 days. Those that survive eight days, usually recovery. A lack of white blood cells and ulcers in the lining of the small intestine, leading to secondary bacterial infection. There are many other viruses and bacteria that can cause bloody diarrhea in dogs. This has led to misdiagnosis and not all cases "small" puppies and adults, in fact, is due to the virus.

Diagnosis
Although symptoms can be very enlightening small, the real diagnosis, the need for a antibody testing, detection of actual small samples of the virus in the feces. The trial is enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay test or enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. Early in the disease, such tests can be negative. Virus isolation is possible, but the process is expensive, and rarely do so. In practice, a common dog parvo symptoms is an acute hemorrhagic diarrhea, usually require a tentative diagnosis of parvovirus.

Walking Without a Lead

2008-03-31T00:18:00.000-07:00

Outdoor activities are a delight when your dog walks obediently by your side. It is often easiest to train a puppy to walk to heel off the lead at first, since it will enjoy human companionship and will usually be willing to follow its owner. Since most puppies also follow the scent of food snacks, it is useful to carry treats throughout training, so you can reward obedience.

Walking in a straight line, with the puppy following the scent of the food reward in your right hand, give the command "Heel". Keep your left hand low, ready to grasp the puppy's collar.
Bending your knees and holding the food near to the puppy's nose, make a right turn, repeating the "Heel" command. The puppy must speed up in order to walk around you.
To turn left, use your left hand to guide the puppy by the collar and usse the command "Steady". Hold the treat low down and move your right hand to the left. The puppy should follow.
If, for any reason, the puppy's becomes distracted and its attention starts to wander, put your left hand under its collar, gently lure it back to the correct heel position, and continue with the exercise.
Give the command "Wait" and kneel to the puppy's right side. Hold the snack low to discourage jumping. Put your left hand, palm down, underneath the puppy's body to prevent it from moving.

Problem Solving

Enjoyable training: If the puppy is not interested in a certain food reward, try using another, or switch to a favourite squeaky toy. Always keep training sessions short, no more than a few minutes at a time, and end them with a period of enjoyable play.

Using toys: If the puppy does not respond to food lures, try drawing its attention to a favourite toy. Using a longline on the puppy should help ensure its compliance to your commands.

NEW COMPLETE DOG TRAINING MANUAL, DR. BRUCE FOGLE WITH PATRICIA HOLDEN WHITE

Advanced Training

2008-03-26T03:46:00.000-07:00

Train your dog to lie down for an extend period to enable you to take it on shopping trips and feel confident that when you tell it to stay, it will be in the same position 20 minutes later.

Teach Your Dog To “Speak”
Correct timing is essential when training your dog to bark on command. Tease the dog with a treat, and as soon as you anticipate that it is about to start barking in frustration, give the command “Speak”. Reward the dog immediately. Once it understands this command, give the command “Quiet” , and offer a treat as soon as the dog stops barking, A barking dog makes an excellent burglar alarm – but you do need an on-off switch.

Learning To Touch
Train your dog to use its paw, to teach it dexterity and provide a basis for mentally stimulating games. While doing this exercise prevent your dog from putting its muzzle near to the food reward by holding its collar in your left hand.

Shaking Hands
When your dog has learned to use its paw, simply replace the command “Paw” with “Shake hands”. As well as amusing your friends and relations, this valuable exercise reinforces your status as pack leader because, in canine language, raising a paw is a gesture of subservience.

Holding Objects
This exercise is an excellent springboard for retrieving games. Tease the dog with a suitable object – a rolled – newspaper is perfect. Hold the dog’s head up, making sure the dog is not uncomfortable, and gently place the object into its mouth. Give the command “Hold”.

Retrieving Objects
Once your dog has learnt to pick up and hold an object, teach it to chase and retrieve. This exercise stimulates the dog’s natural instinct to pursue its prey. Retrieving is an especially useful skill for highly active dogs such as dogs and terriers – as it enables you to exercise the dog thoroughly, without exhausting yourself.

Reluctant Retrievers
If your dog is unwilling to fetch an object you have thrown, make the exercise more interesting by using a squeaky a toy and running with the dog on its lead to where you have thrown the objects.
- If the dog reaches the toy and looks puzzled, it has not learned to hold properly.
- If the dog picks up the toy but does not return it, go back to recall training.

Fetching From Water
Most dogs are fine swimmers: Avoid treacherous or icy waters, however
- Be wary of water-borne disease, such as leptospirosis, and blue-green algal bloom which can cause itchy skin, diarrhea, or even death.
- Ensure that your dog is able to get out of a body of water safely.

101 ESSENTIAL TIPS TRAINING YOUR DOG

Canine Games

2008-03-24T05:36:00.001-07:00

Stimulation Through Play

Play constructive games with your dog to provide it with the mental and physical stimulation on which it thrives. It is in a dog’s nature to be constantly alert; lack of activity leads to boredom, and bored dogs can be destructive. Even the most frivolous games can strengthen the bond between you, and by controlling the games you will reinforce your authority as pack leader.

Retrieving Games

Catching a toy, such as a ball or a Frisbee, and returning it, is an exciting game for an active, healthy dog. However, note that physically demanding games such as this can dangerous if your dog is elderly or overweight. Playing retrieving games reinforces your authority because the dog is dependent upon you to throw it the toy.

Hide & Seek

Play hide-and-seek with your dog to test its mental and scenting abilities. Show your dog a favorite toy, then give the command to “Sit and Stay” outside a room while you hide the toy (choose a simple hiding place initially). Then allow the dog into the room and tell it to “Fetch” the object. You can use this game as a basis for training your dog to “fetch” a useful item, such as a set of keys, a wallet, or newspaper – but only on your command.

Tug-Of-War

Play tug-of-war only when your dog has learned to drop an object on command, and always use specially made, robust toys. Do not play this game with dominant or possessive dogs, because they might react aggressively. When you have finished playing the game, make a point of putting the toy away to re-establish that you are the one who is in charge.

Following A Scent

Lay down a track by walking through grass, leaving a reward such as a toy or a food treat at the end. Scent hounds, such as Beagles and Bloodhounds, particularly refresh the mental concentration that is involved when following a scent trail. Keep the dog on a lead to stop it wandering off on the wrong scent trail.

Jogging The Dog

If you enjoy jogging, train your dog to run to heel. It will add a new dimension to your exercise routine. The majority of dogs will find this a highly enjoyable “game”, although older dogs may tire before their owners do. Some breeds, such as Bulldogs, experience breathing difficulties at the best of time – gently exercise is better for these dogs.

Activity Games

Training your dog to participate in purpose made activity games. Begin by teaching it to use it paw. Many dog clubs hold competitions involving these activities. Retrievers naturally excel at such games.

101 ESSENTIAL TIPS TRAINING YOUR DOG

Training Equipment

2008-03-20T00:14:00.000-07:00

Choosing Accessories

Be sure to choose accessories that are appropriate for the size and temperament of your dog. You will need a long lead for training, as well as the standard walking lead.

Bean bags make ideal beds, while newspaper-lined playpens provide controlled house training.

Remember to replace your dog’s collar frequently as it grows.

Taking The Lead

In additional to a standard lead, you will require a long cotton lead for outdoor training, and an equally long houseline with a bolt snap for indoor control. Make sure that the lead and bolt snap are not too heavy for your dog. Extending leads are a practical choice, because they allow your dog some freedom while you still maintain control.

Collar Your Dog

Simple buckle collars are the best choice for most dogs. Attach an identity disc or canister containing a contact telephone number in case your dog strays. Half-check collars are ideal for boisterous dogs with short attention spans. Check chains are useful when they used properly, but they should never ve used on breeds with delicate windpipes such as Yorkshire Terriers.

Fitting A Half Check Collar

Fit a half check collar so that the soft webbing lies around your dog’s throat, while the chain links sit at the back of the neck.

Head Halter

Use a head halter to control larger, independent dogs. Clip the lead onto the halter; if the dog lunges, its own momentum pulls its jaws shut and its head down.

Harnessing Your Dog

A small dog is often more comfortable wearing a harness than it would be with other forms of restraint. It slips over the dog’s body and around the chest, so avoiding collar pressure on the neck if the dog pulls on its lead.

101 ESSENTIAL TIPS TRAINING YOUR DOG

Rewards and Discipline

2008-03-19T00:03:00.000-07:00

Giving Praise

Dogs need constant encouragement when they being trained. Food snacks, toys, and physical contact and verbal praise from their owners are all strong rewards. Every time your dog obeys a command, praise it to let it know that you are pleased. Your dog will soon understand simple praise like “good dog”.

The Important of Toys

Puppies chew objects in order to learn about their environment: By providing a dog with toys you can insure that, even in your absence, your dog can stimulates its mind and senses without resorting to destructive behavior.

Rewarding Toys

The best toys have their own unique smells and are unlikely any other thing that the dog might find. Balls and Frisbees are excellent for chasing, catching, and retrieving, bones are more satisfying to chew.

Too Many Toys

Encourage your dogs to chew its own specific toys to prevent it damaging household goods. If a dog is given too many toys, it may think that it can chew anything. Allow a maximum of three toys that are not like any other household item. Don’t give your dog old clothes or shoes to play with. If your dog is allowed to chew these items, it will assume to chew any other articles of clothing. Dog cannot distinguish between old items and new ones.

Choosing Treats

Find out which snacks your dog likes best and give these special treats as rewards for good behavior. However, don’t over stimulate your dog by using too many food treats, and never give your dog sweets.

Unplanned Rewards

Scavenging for tit bits can become a habit if rewarded, albeit unintentionally, with success. Stop this problem from developing by securing all rubbish and keeping tempting item out of reach. In this quest for food items, your dog may swallow damaging, inedible objects.

Correct Discipline

Newer use physical punishment to discipline your dog. Instead, give it an unpleasant surprise as soon as you see it misbehaving. A small squirt from a water pistol or spray gun will do the trick, or a blast from a high-pitched alarm.

Good Timing

Reprimand your dog only when you actually observe it being disobedient. Displaying anger after the event will just confuse the dog, because it will not understand why you are angry. In appropriate and undermine your correct disciplinary tactics. You can learn to anticipate your dogs’ behavior by observing its body language.

Reducing Rewards

Initially, it will be most effective to combine food rewards with verbal praise. After a while, however, gradually reduce the amount of food rewards while continuing to give either physical or verbal praise. The dog will soon learn to respond to verbal praise alone. Note that small breeds are often more selective eaters than large ones, so they may not respond well to food rewards at any stage.

101 ESSENTIAL TIPS TRAINING YOUR DOG

Training Tactics

2008-03-18T00:09:00.000-07:00

Make Learning Fun

Daily training sessions should always be enjoyable occasions for both you and your dog.

Do not attempt to train if either one of you isn’t concentrating: a dog will know if you are bored.

Always finish with something the dog enjoys and is able to do. However, don’t save the best rewards for the end- the dog may want to finish the exercise quickly to receive its final reward.

When To Train

It is beset to train when your dog is hungry. It will be mentally alert, and will respond more readily to food rewards. Note that dogs have much shorter attention spans than human, so keep the sessions short. Train for a maximum of 15 minutes, twice a day. Giving a dog two meals a day will create time for two good training sessions.

The Right Environment

Begin training in the quiet environment of your home. Once the dog reliably obeys your commands, move to a quiet location outdoors and repeat the training sessions. Once you dog is obedient both indoors and in quiet outdoor locations, graduate to a busier area. Be sure to vary the places in which you train your dog, so that you maintain its interest.

Giving Commands

Dogs have a limited ability to understand the human language, and respond best to short, sharp commands. Attract your dog’s attention by speaking its name, then give your command.

The inflection of your voice is important when giving commands. Lower the tone of your voice to reprimand your dog; use a higher tone for praise.

Avoid constantly repeating a command: this will only confuse your dog.

Body Language

Dogs are adept at reading human body language. Encouraging your dog to respond to you by assuming a welcoming posture. Be enthusiastic and generous with your praise, and dramatic when you reprimand your dog. Smile when you are pleased, and grimace of the dog willfully disobey your command.

Enforcing Commands

Make sure that you are always in a position of control, so that you are able to enforce your commands. This I particularly important during outdoor training sessions, where the dog may be a danger to itself and others if it does not obey commands reliably. So keep your dog on a long training lead during all training sessions until you are confident of being in control.

Training Not Exercise

Dogs need plenty of regular exercise as well as time to play with other dogs. Training is not a substitute for either of these, so ensure that your dog gets the exercise its age, breed and temperament require.

The Value Of Saying “No”

“No” is one of the most important words your dog will learn. With this one command, you can regain control or prevent your dog from doing something dangerous. The timing of your commands and knowing when to say “No” are important elements of dog training, If, for example, a nervous dog backs away from a stranger, and you try to assume it by saying “it’s OK”, you are actually telling the dog that you approve of its behavior. Instead say “No” firmly, adopting a stern tone and a dominant stance.

101 ESSENTIAL TIPS TRAINING YOUR DOG

Outdoor Training

2008-03-17T21:32:00.000-07:00

Responsible Ownership

Remember that enjoying the love, loyalty, and companionship of a canine brings obligations to maintain not only the dog’s basic needs, but also the quality of life of your family, friends, and neighbors. Ensure that you obey the local legal requirements concerning dogs, and obtain insurance for your dog.

Road Sense

Once your puppy responds to commands in your home and garden, you can move to busier environments. With the approval of your vet, take your dog to public places so that it can become accustomed to traffic noise. Use a lead to keep your dog safe and under control at all times. Always command your dog to sit before crossing a road.

Introducing The Car

Train your dog to look upon the car as a second home. Dogs can quite naturally enjoy car journeys, both because they find the trips exciting, and because car journeys often end in exercise and meeting with other dogs. Take your dog on frequent short trips so that it becomes accustomed to the car. If your dog experiences car sickness, do not feed it before the trip, and protect the car with newspaper.

Control & Restraint

Always keep your dog under control when taking it out to a public place.

Muzzle your dog if you have any doubts about its temperament, especially in the presence of children.

Use only a safe, basket-type muzzle that allows the dog to pant freely.

The Importance Of Playtime

Socialize your pet by arranging meetings with dogs that are well controlled. Keep both dogs that are well controlled. Keep both dogs on their leads for the initial introduction. After they have sniffed each other thoroughly and become acquainted, allow them to play together. It is through play that dogs learn about cement their pack relationship.

Dogs With Children

Even the friendliest dog should be introduced to your young children only in presence, and under the supervision, of an adult, it might not be used to the more rapid and jerky movements of children.

Instruct children to stroke the dog from the side. They should never pat a dog’s head, as this is a dominant gesture to a canine.

Because children are much smaller and less authoritative than adults, they are more at risk from bites.

The “Down & Stay” Command
Teach your dog to stay down on command in order to maintain control in the presence of children or in other distracting environments. This exercise requires great patience to keep the dog calm. Be careful not to display anger, but neither should you be flamboyant with your praise.

101 ESSENTIAL TIPS TRAINING YOUR DOG

Indoor Training – Part III

2008-03-16T22:05:00.000-07:00

Walking On A Lead

Ensure that walking your dog is always a pleasure rather than an endurance by teaching it from an early age to walk to heel on its lead. Start training indoors, using a long training lead. Let the puppy look at and smell the lead. Then attached the lead to the puppy’s comfortable, well-fitting collar.

Prevent Pulling

Do not allow your dog to pull on its lead. As well as being uncomfortable for you, it can make the dog overexcited, and may be intimidating to other people. Try giving a quick, light jerk on the lead as the dog pulls forward. If this does not work, command the puppy to sit each time it pulls. Neither you nor the puppy should lose concentration, and you should not shout the commands. Use a head halter on boisterous dog.

Learning To Ignore Distractions

Even the most obedient dog may lapse when faced with a tantalizing diversion. After training your dog to come on command, create an enticing distraction such as a succulent bone. As your dog lunges forward, give the command “Leave”. Reinforce the command with a gentle jerk on the lead. Use an extendible lead until your dog responds willingly.

Lead Chewing

To young and boisterous dogs, leads are exciting new toys. Such dogs will often chew their leads, or try to climb them. If your dog persistently chews its lead, spray the lead with a special bitter-tasting liquid, which can be purchased at most pet shops or veterinary surgeries. As its name suggests, this non-toxic bitter spray makes the lead unpleasant to taste. When the dog chews the lead, it is disciplined by the nasty taste, rather than you.

“Sit & Stay”

The commands “Sit” and “Stay” form the basis of responsible pet ownership and are useful forms of control during outdoor activity. Begin this training exercise activity in a quiet indoor area, such as a hallway, and limit each session to 15 minutes. If the dog moves, hold it by the collar with your left hand and tuck its bottom down with your right. DO not expect the dog to understand the commands immediately.

101 ESSENTIAL TIPS TRAINING YOUR DOG

Groom your Dog

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Grooming your dog daily not only keeps it clean and healthy, but also helps to reassert your authority over it. Picking up the dog, holding its head, and opening its mouth are dominant gestures that reinforce your control. Initially, use food rewards as distractions throughout the grooming session.

Three Essential Commands

The “Come”, “Sit” and “Stay” commands are the most important lessons that you can teach your dog, since they enable you to keep it under control at all times. All dog owner have the responsibility for ensuring that their pets are not a nuisance. Be sure to praise the dog when it responds well. When it disobeys a command, repeat the exercise from the previous level of success.

Coming To You

Train your puppy to come to you on command when it is alert and hungry. Divide its meal into ten portions, and throughout the day entice it to the food bowl using its name and the command “Come”. As the puppy comes to you, kneel down and praise it by saying “Good dog” with enthusiasm and give the good.

The “Sit” Command

One your puppy responds well the command to come, teach it to sit. Call the puppy to you, showing it a food treat. As it reaches you, move the treat slowly up and over its head. The pup will naturally sit down in order to keep its eyes on the food. Give the command “Sit” when you see the puppy begin to bend its hind legs. Initially, reward each respond with verbal praise and treats.

Learning The “Down” Command

Train your dog to lie down reliably on your command before moving outdoors where there are dangers such as busy roads. There are two lying down positions – “sphinx”, in which the hind legs are tucked under, and “flat”, where the hips are rolled and the legs are to one side. At this stage, it doesn’t matter which position it assumes.

Walking Without A Lead

It is often easiest to train a puppy to walk to heel off the lead at first, since it will enjoy a human companionship and will usually be willing to follow its owner. Using the scent of food to attract the puppy, give command “Heel”. Be ready to grasp the collar if the puppy wanders, and attempt to cover only small distance initially.

101 ESSENTIAL TIPS TRAINING YOUR DOG

Indoor Training – Part I

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Early Home Routines

All family members should handle a puppy while it learns to wear a collar and lead, eat from its own bowl, sleep in its own bed, and come when called. But one person should be primarily responsibly for training.

Personal Space for your Dog

Do not isolate new canine family members: dogs are sociable animals. Set up a bed as a personally space for your dog, and place it in a busy area of the home, such as a corner of the kitchen. Like its ancestor the wolf, your pet dog likes to enjoy the security of its won personal space, which is the equivalent of a wolf’s den.

No Nipping

Discipline your puppy each time it nips you by saying “No” firmly. If the puppy persists despite the admonition, you can grab it by the scruff of the neck firmly but without causing pain, mimicking the way in which the puppy’s mother would have administered discipline.

Puppy Crates

To a dog that has been trained from puppyhood to use it, a crate becomes its own secure haven. Crate training encourages house training, reduces destructive behavior, and eases traveling with your dog. Place soft bedding, a bowl of water, and your puppy’s favorite toy inside the crate.

House Training

Your puppy will want to eliminate after its wake up, eats, or plays. As it sniffs the ground – a sign that it is about to eliminate – take it to the place you have chosen for it to relieve itself and say “Hurry up”. Before long, your dog will eliminate when you give the “Hurry up” command.

Moving Outside

Start outdoor training alongside house training as soon as possible. Take a small piece of soiled paper with you; the puppy will smell its own scent and be encouraged to transfer your dog to a public place, remember to carry a purpose-made “poop scoop” with you, or a simple plastic bag, and be sure to clean up after your dog.

101 ESSENTIAL TIPS TRAINING YOUR DOG

Going for a Walk with Your Dog

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The more obedient your dog is, the more freedom you can grant it during a walk.

In areas populated with game, as well as during the hatching time and breeding periods of wildlife, do not allow the dog to run into meadows or fields. A dog that cannot be depended upon to obey when it is off leash has to be leashed in such areas.

Stray dogs certainly are no rarity anywhere. There are dogs owners who let their pets stray in order to save themselves the bother of taking them for a walk. But a dog also can stray when it gets too little attention at home or has too strong a sex drive.

If the dog’s sex drive is very pronounced, castration is advisable. In otter cases, it helps to spend more time with the dog, engage in plenty of activities with it, and show it ample affection.

Stray dogs easily can place themselves and others in danger. For example, they can cause serious traffic accident, be accidentally shot by a hunter when chasing game, and at times behave unpredictably toward other dogs and humans as well.

Encountering Other Dog

Basically, it is very beneficial for dog to meet other members of its spices when out for a walk with you. When that happens, however, follow these ground rules:

If strange dogs meet and their dispositions are relatively normal, it is best for them to be leash off. They can then sniff at each other to their heart’s content and become acquainted. Either a game will develop, or each dog will go its own way.
If the dogs take a dislike to each other, the situation no longer looks so benign. The best course of actions is for you and the other dog owner to keep moving in opposite directions and to call your dogs.
If your dogs ever gets involved in a fight, don’t try to intervene! If the dog’s dispositions are normal, they usually separate on their own after a short while. If not, the owners can try to grab their per simultaneously, by their hind legs, and separate them in that way.
It is usually not a good situation when dogs meet and one is on leash while the other is off; a fight can easily be the result. When a dog on leash approaches you and your dog, leash your pet as well.
If both dogs are on leash when they meet, chances are nothing will happen. However, you should make it a rule never to let strange dogs on leash get too close. Male dogs, in particular, often feel strong when they are on leash. In addition, the dogs could get their leashes tangled while playing, and that predicament often leads to a fight.

EDUCATING YOUR DOG WITH LOVE AND UNDERSTANDING, KATHARINA SCHLEGL-KOFLER

Your Dog as a Recreational Partner

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Many dog owners also love engaging sports in their free time. The dog should be included often, especially in such activities as biking and jogging.

Note: Not all dog breeds are suited for these types of stresses; therefore, you need to get the requisite information before acquiring a dog.

Running Beside Your Bicycle

Starting at the age of roughly six months, a dog that is normally developed can slowly accustomed to run alongside a bicycle – at the outset, for no more than a few minutes.

The dog should run at the right side of the bicycle – that is, between the curb and the bike. Use a special command for this purpose, such as right or bike. It has to be clearly distinguishable from heel.

First, push the bicycle while you lead the dog, on leash, next to it. The bike should be between you and the dog. Don’t put the collar on the same way you do for leash training; here the ring of the collar has to be on the left side of the dog’s neck (the dog has to run at the right of the bike). Just as when heeling, incidentally, the dog should not be allowed to mark with urine once you are underway, whether it is off or on leash, when following the bike command. That would show disdain for you personally, that is, for the superdog. Also, it could be very dangerous for you if the dog suddenly were to drag you, along with the bike, into bushes. For this reason, never wrap the leash tightly around your hand.

When pushing the bike goes well, you can start riding slowly. Just as when doing leash training, start by moving straight ahead, then incorporate some curves and change the pace – first faster, then slower. If you stop, the dog should sit down immediately. First it should do that in response to the sit command; later on, that will happen even without the command.

Don’t ask too much of your dog. Start with short rides of about 10 minutes and lengthened them gradually.

Keep an eye on the pace. The dog is supposed to trot, not gallop.

As a companion when You Jog

Many dogs enjoy jogging as well. This is nothing more than heeling at a run. Pet stores now offer special jogging leashes that you fasten around your middle. Here, too, the same rule applies: Don’t ask too much of the dog, but build up its endurance gradually be increasing the pace steadily over a number of days. In an area with little traffic – and if the dog has an appropriate level of obedience – you can let it run off leash both when biking and when jogging.

EDUCATING YOUR DOG WITH LOVE AND UNDERSTANDING, KATHARINA SCHLEGL-KOFLER

Special Types of Advanced Training

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A dog that is to receive special training later on needs to be made familiar with a few things while it is still a puppy. For hunting dogs, for example, these things include getting used to the water and to game and becoming familiar with retrieving. Retrieving often is a great deal of fun for other dogs as well. Consequently, here are a few tips on ways to foster your dog’s ability to retrieve

- Praise your puppy every time it brings something unappetizing object or something that it really ought not to have.

- Your know never scold it at the moment when it brings you something

Encourage it – by coaxing it or by pretending to run away – to bring the retrieved object to you and put it into your hand.

Good behavior Has to Be Learned

Many people find the following habits distasteful in dogs:

Jumping up on people, and
Begging at the table

If the dog is not to exhibit these behaviors later on, it has to be trained properly at an early age.

Jumping up on people: Dogs do this because of their natural behavioral patterns, Puppies and low-ranking canines greet higher-ranking pack members by licking their muzzle. That is exactly what the puppy is trying to do with you. But people are not always wearing clothing appropriate for receiving such attention, and having the front feet of a Great Dane, for instance, on one’s shoulders is not everyone’s cup of tea. For these reasons, you should direct your puppy’s display of friendliness along more disciplined paths.

It is best to bend over to receive the puppy’s greeting. Hold it firmly with both hands, and speaks to it in a friendly way. As soon as it has learned to obey the sit command, the dog should sit when being greeted by you or by your visitors.

The following method is suitable for slightly larger, boisterous young dogs. When the dog starts to jump on you, raise your right or left knee, and catch it mid chest as you correct with a firm “No!” That will put the dog back on the ground rather urgently. Then greet it effusively.

It is important that you follow this procedure consistently when greeting the dog, and that no one allow the dog to jump up. Otherwise, the success of this exercise is in jeopardy.

Begging at the table: The right approach is to consistently refuse to give the dog food at the table, right from the outset. If that is done, most dogs will never even think of begging. Apart from the fact that this behavior is unpleasant, that food eat generally is not good for a dog’s health.

A well –trained dog will lie peacefully in its bed or under the table while its family is eating. If you think you can break your pet of the habit of begging by giving it a tidbit now and them, you will achieve the exact opposite. In the future, a drooling or whining dog will take up its position next to the table at every meal.

Your pet naturally will exhibit this behavior not only at home, but also in friend’s homes. If your pet already has formed the habit of begging and you find this annoying, consistently send it to its bed whenever you eat. Don’t forget to come back and give it a release cue, however.

EDUCATING YOUR DOG WITH LOVE AND UNDERSTANDING, KATHARINA SCHLEGL-KOFLER

Introduction to the Collar and Leash

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The first commands should be practiced with the dog on leash at all times. Then you can administer a correction at any time, and it will be impressed upon the puppy early on that it has no other option but to obey.

Getting the dog used to the leash and collar: For many dogs this presents no difficulty, and they soon accept both collar and leash.

It is helpful if you get the puppy used to the collar first. At the beginning, put the collar on your pet in your home, for a few hours at a time. Once it accepts the collar, attached the leash as well. First, it probably will resist this curb on its freedom by straining at the leash. Then try strolling around a bit with the dog on leash. Or, let the dog lead you around at first.

Leash Training

As soon as the puppy accepts the leash and collar, teach it to stay at your left side at all times.

Heel

How to practice: Take the leash in your right hand. For correction, use both hands. Use your left hand to indicate praise.

The puppy’s head should be about level with its owner’s knee. That is the only way it can get the message in time when you are changing direction or speed later on. That means that the dog’s head should be neither ahead of (forging) nor behind (lagging) the trainer’s leg. A treat in your left hand will motivated the dog to stay at your left side. Give the heel command and start walking. If the dog hesitates and stops, coax it to move forward. If it moves ahead quickly, falls behind, or pulls firmly to the side, correct it with a swift, sharp tug on the leash, so that it end up at your left side again, and repeat the heal command, praising the dog when it lines up with you again. Then you should pet it and praise it immediately, while continuing to move ahead and letting the leash hang loosely again. In this way, the puppy will learn that being at its owner’s left side is always an agreeable experience.

The sharp tug on the leash is extremely important. If you pull the dog alone slowly, it will offer increasing resistance. Then your training strains at its leash, which will unpleasant later on, especially with bi dogs.

At first, walk only short distances with puppy, and always move straight ahead. Once that is working well, incorporate curves in your path of movement, first gradual ones and them sharper ones.

Don’t forget to keep taking breaks for play, so that the puppy is not overtaxed.

EDUCATING YOUR DOG WITH LOVE AND UNDERSTANDING, KATHARINA SCHLEGL-KOFLER

The Puppy Learns Its Name

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The first thing your puppy has to learn is to answer to its name. If its breeder has already gotten it used to the name, the puppy will know its name when it joins your household. If not, always say its name in connection with something positive – when you pet it, for example, or when you feed it. In this way, it will learn to respond to its name.

Housebreaking

The next learning objective is housebreaking your pet.

Basically, a puppy usually has to relieve itself after every meal, every time it wakes up, and while it is playing. Keep a close eye on the puppy, and take it outside as soon as you notice that

it is walking around sniffing at the floor, or
turning around in a circle while it looks for a likely spot.

Once it has relieved itself outdoors, shower it with praise.

If you consistently observe the puppy and always manage to get it outside in time, your little dog will be housebroken within about two weeks.

Never rub the puppy’s nose in exercise or urine. The puppy won’t understand what you’re doing, and in addition, you’ll have to wash it. Furthermore, you should never strike a puppy, for any reason, but certainly not for messing in your house. Swatting a puppy will do nothing but make the youngster fear and resent you. Shouting at a puppy is also futile. You can break the puppy’s concentration by clapping your hands and you can let it know it isn’t doing the right thing by saying “No” in a firm, authoritarian (alpha male) voice.

My tips: Make it a habit to say the same thing – “Hurry up,” for example – every time the dog defecates. Then you can succeed in getting the dog to d its business almost on command.

Note: If you pet does have an accident in your home, don’t punish it. Remove all traces of the mishap as described above.

In addition to planned feeding times and regular relief outings, you can help your puppy through housebreaking in several other ways:

Always emphasize with praise the times your pup does what it should, where it should.
Feed a high-quality puppy food with good digestibility. The stool from this type of food will be smaller and firmer, type of food will be smaller and firmer, an added benefit if an inside mistake does occur, and much easier for a young dog to hold than a loose, runny stool.
Never feed table scraps. Not only are they nutritionally unbalancing but they may actually bring on diarrhea and/or vomiting.
Do not leave food out for your pup all day long; your youngster will actually do better on three to four small meals a day.
Never put food items (biscuits, edible treats, etc.) in the dog’s house or on its pillow. The puppy will not be able to keep its den area clean if bits of food are always present.
Discourage messes by thoroughly cleaning up any that do occur. Deodorize an accident spot on the floor to prevent your puppy from catching its scent and repeating the act.

EDUCATING YOUR DOG WITH LOVE AND UNDERSTANDING, KATHARINA SCHLEGL-KOFLER

Dog Training Programs in Action

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Two Levels of Training

Here explain step by step proper way to teach each individual exercise to your dog.

You should start the training program while your dog is still a puppy. At this stage its willingness to learn and capacity for learning are at their most pronounced.

An adult dog, also, is still capable of being trained, although it can no longer learn to obey as easily as a dog that is accustomed to do so from the very outset.

Since the exercises for puppies and those for adolescent dogs differ in their degree of difficulty, the following portion of this manual is divided into two parts:

Training a Puppy, and
Training a Companion Dog

Teaching Exercises Properly

This training should be spread over the course of the day. Some exercises can be taught indoors, others in the yard or during a walk. New exercises always should be practiced with the dog on leash and without any distractions – preferable in your own home or yard.

Once the dog has comprehended a command, gradually increase the amount of distraction. Now you can also drill the dog in the park, first on leash and later off leash.

Make sure that you give a command only when you are certain that you can correct the dog immediately, if necessary.

Example: Don’t shout. “Sit” at your young dog when it is involved in playing with other dogs. In this situation, it is too distracted and will almost certainly not obey. Then the dog would learn that it doesn’t matter whether it obeys or not.

“Multilingual” Training for Dogs

You can teach the individual commands to your pet in different languages. That means your dog will learn to perform certain exercises in response to verbal commands, auditory signals given with a whistle and hand signals.

Hand signals and whistles signals are very practical and effective, since a blow of the whistle, for example, often is more successful than a spoken command. In addition, the different languages often add greater variety to the training sessions.

Training A Puppy

The best method of training a puppy is positive conditioning. That means you create situations in which the dog does, of its own accord, what you want it to do. You work with the dog without direct force and with a great deal of patience.

In work with a puppy, play should predominate. Drill for approximately one to two minutes, then follow up with an extensive break for play.

Practice with the puppy before it is fed, and do not practice when it is about to have a nap.

It is important to hold regular training sessions with your pet. With a puppy, two to four minutes of training two or three times a day will be enough. Always remember that your dog, regardless of its good qualities, is still just a dog. Your puppy will want to learn the lessons you want to teach it. Be patient with this young dog. Always adapt your training to the speed of the dog’s learning.

EDUCATING YOUR DOG WITH LOVE AND UNDERSTANDING, KATHARINA SCHLEGL-KOFLER

Basic Course for Trainers – Part III

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Give Clear Commands

Commands have to be brief and clear, since a dog cannot grasp the meaning of an entire sentence. Give only the actual command, together with the dog’s name; for example, say “Toby, heel,” not “Come on, be a good dog and heel.”

If the dog has mixed up two commands, you need to correct it. That takes some practice as well. Here’s an example: You give your pet the down command, but the dog sits instead. The right move now is to go to the dog, repeat the command, and guide it into the down position. That way it will understand what you want of it. But, if you go up to it and explain, You’re supposed to do down now, not sit, you’ll only confuse it. It will hear two commands and not know what it is supposed to do next. And that brings us to the next point.

Require Commands To Be Obeyed at Once

If your dog is to develop a good level of obedience, it has to know that it needs to obey a command without delay. Make sure that your pet carries out an order the first time, as soon as it has understood it. If you have to repeat the command, do so while applying a little correction as well. The more often you repeat the same command without insisting that the dog carry it out, the more watered down the notion will become and the less your pet can counted on to obey.

Commands Should Be Carried Out to the Letter

Make sure your dog always carries out an exercise exactly. You are not doing your pet a favor if one day you generously let it get by with sloppy work and then punish it for the same kind of work the next day. The dog will be unable to get its bearings, and will get rattled.

Finish and Exercise Correctly

If you have given the dog a command, it is very important that you also terminate it in some way, whether by starting another exercise or by ending the practice session; for example, if you have ordered the dog to lie down somewhere in your home, don’t forget about it – you have to come back and release it.

Practice Takes Time

Allow plenty of time for drill sessions. Always begin a session with an exercise that the dog has already learned. The session should always be ended by the dog handler, not by the dog, which may feel disinclined to continue. If you see that your pupil would prefer to play, have it do two more exercises correctly and then give it its freedom.

Always conclude a lesson with an exercise that the dog already knows, to let it feel successful. That is especially necessary if previously you were teaching a new command that did not work.

Don’t introduce a new exercise until the dog has mastered all the previous commands. Incidentally, it is not advisable to have the dog repeat a command too many times in succession. That spoils its enjoyment of the training program. If an exercise goes well, repeat it once or twice, then start a new one.

EDUCATING YOUR DOG WITH LOVE AND UNDERSTANDING, KATHARINA SCHLEGL-KOFLER

Basic Course for Trainers – Part II

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Praise and Scolding

Praise: Of your dog has obeyed a command nicely, don’t forgot to praise it.

Use a higher register for words of praise.

It is important to praise the dog in such a way that it can tell you are glad. With some dogs it is enough to pet them a little; with others, effusive praise is necessary. For emphasis you can also give your pet an edible reward from time to time, but don’t make a habit of it. Your certainly don’t want your dog to obey only when it is hungry.

Scolding: There are situations in which you have to discipline your pet. That is nothing unnatural for the dog, since in a canine pack it would also be reprimanded if it had violated the rules. However, it is important that the dog also understand what you want to convey to it and why it is being reprimanded.

With many dogs, a loud, sharp “No!” is sufficient. There are many thick-skinned dogs for which that is not enough, however. In such a case, in addition to the no, you can place one hand on each side of the dog’s face and look at it sternly. If that isn’t adequate either, take hold of its coat firmly at the nape and give the dog a shake. The next step, if one is necessary, is to lift it up by the coat on nape, so that only the hind legs are still on the ground. With some dogs, even that does not work. In this cases, grasp the dog 0 if you are strong enough – by the nape and the rump, and lift it off the ground. Another possibility would be to lay it on its back and hold it firmly by the throat until it will stay in that position of its own accord.

Some punishments are incomprehensible to the dog, such as making it go without a meal or locking it in the basement. Often we unconsciously praise or scold in such a way as to achieve the exact opposite of what we really intended. That is the case, for example, when the dog barks or growls at someone for no reason and we then pet it and talk soothingly to it. The dog will interpret our behavior approval.

Note: Both praise and scolding have to follow the given behavior it exhibited most recently, A typical error – one commonly made – is to punish the dog when it finally comes back to you after you have called it repeatedly or after undertaking a scouting trop without your permission. Since the dog in this case connects the punishment with it return, you are achieving the precise opposite of what you really intend.

EDUCATING YOUR DOG WITH LOVE AND UNDERSTANDING, KATHARINA SCHLEGL-KOFLER

Basic Course for Trainers – Part I

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To make the training of your dog a success, it is important to observe certain rules right from the beginning. These rules will make from the beginning. These rules will make learning easier for the dog and help it recognize what its assigned place in the family is to be. Some training, like housebreaking and basic rules of behavior, should begin as soon as your puppy comes into your home. Other serious training for your puppy probably shouldn’t start much before 6 months of age. Of course, some dogs will be ready for training earlier that others. Your dog’s level of physical and mental maturity will dictate its readiness for training. The veterinarian will help you decide when your pup is old enough for lessons to be meaningful.

If you have never training a dog, you would be well-advised to seek help from an experienced trainer. Training should be an enjoyable experience, and someone who thoroughly knows the breed will be able to help you keep things both enjoyable and productive.

The Most Important Training Rules

Be Consistent

Consistency is one of the most critical rules of dog training. It is essential for all family members to be in agreement about what the dog is and is not allowed to do. Do not let one member of the family allow the dog to sit on couch, foe example, while another does not. Moreover, the couch and the bed are, from the dog’s point of view, elevated places to rest, and, in packs of dogs or wolves, such places are reserved exclusively for high-ranking animals. This, it is better not to give your dog a chance to get comfortable on the sofa or bed.

Only One Trainer

While your pet is being trained, your family needs to designate one adult member to practice regularly with the dog. That will make it easier for the dog to learn the commands. Later on, other household members should agree to use the same commands, to avoid confusing the dog.

Your Voice Is Crucial

The dog takes it cues to a great extent from the inflection of the human voice and the sound of individual words. It does not, however, have a real understanding of the words.

Commands should always be given in a firm, decisive tone of voice at normal volume. It is unnecessary, as well as inadvisable, to shout at the dog.

EDUCATING YOUR DOG WITH LOVE AND UNDERSTANDING, KATHARINA SCHLEGL-KOFLER

How Dogs Learn

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Dogs are very capable of learning and adapting. In contrast to wild animals, they are capable of mastering learning processes that go beyond vital necessities such as the search for food. Indeed, one can even say that they are capable of simple discerning action.

Everyone knows that a dog can be taught a great variety of commands and behaviors. But how does the dog learn them?

Basically, dogs learn through experience. Modes of behavior that are connected with positive experiences are repeated eagerly, while those linked with negative experiences tend to be avoided.

Dogs are capable of different processes of learning:

Classical conditioning: Here a certain stimulus triggers a reflex; for example, a dog likes to lick out empty yogurt containers When you eat yogurt, the spoon makes a certain sound on the bottom of the container when it is almost empty. Then the dog is allowed to lick the container clean. After some time the sound alone is enough to make the dog’s mouth water.

Conditioned aversion: Another learning process is conditioned aversion; for example, a dog steals cake from the table. If it is scolded with a loud ‘Not’, it will avoid this situation in the future. A certain stimulus, then, is followed by a bad experience. (Never use violence – or even the threat of it – to mold a dog’s behavior. Animals so conditioned can develop vicious tendencies, or else they may become timid, cowering at their owner’s every move. So put away those rolled-up newspapers and those mincing straps! The idea of wielding such props to intimidate your dog – even is you have no intention of actually using them – is without merit.)

Operant conditioning: Some dog owners demand, often unconsciously, a certain behavior; for example, a dog is limping because it is injured. Its mistress feels very sorry for it and bestows special attention upon it. When it has recovered, it continues to limp, in order to get this attention again.

This type of process is called operant learning or operant conditioning.

Conditioned inhibition: In the learning of a conditioned inhibition, an undesirable behavior such as cat-chasing, is prevented before it begins. In this case, a threatening no when a cat comes into view, stops the dog before it chases the cat, not when it comes back home after the fact. With appropriate watchfulness on your part, this presents no great difficulty. All you have to do is to discover the cat before the dog has seen it and begins to chase it.

Conditioned appetence: Last, we come to the learning of conditioned appetitive behavior. Here the dog learns to combine a certain stimulus or a certain action with a certain course of behavior; for example, a dog that loves the water goes into raptures when its mistress picks up the special ring it uses as a water toy because it knows it is going to go for a swim.

EDUCATING YOUR DOG WITH LOVE AND UNDERSTANDING, KATHARINA SCHLEGL-KOFLER